Tuesday, 4 April 2017

Malaga

From the airport
Trains: trains to Malaga run every 30 minutes from 6.30am-11.30pm

Malaga is a cracking little town that displays the best of Spain crammed into a small and easily navigable package. The easiest way to orientate yourself on arrival is to take the long, steep footpath from the Ayuntamiento (or townhall) and head to the top of the Jebal al Faro hill which sits above the city. Jebal al Faro used to be home to a lighthouse that protected the city's ships while today it is crowded by the ruins of two Moorish fortresses that were designed to protect the city itself. The 8th century Alcazaba and the 14th century Gibralfaro offer vistas of the city's main sites such as the port, the Malagueta bullring and, on a clear day at least, the coast of North Africa.

The city's main thoroughfare is the boulevard Marques de Larios. Essentially a pedestrianised commercial street teeming with high-end clothes shops, it culminates in the Plaza De La Constitucion, the heart of the city and its nightlife. Packed into the surrounding side streets that spider off from the square, you will find some of the best tapas and flamenco bars in Spain that will have you dancing until the early hours of the morning.

Malaga is packed with history, having been invaded and conquered time and again by various marauding masses. Pablo Picasso was born here. There is also a magnificent Gothic cathedral which remains incomplete as the city ran out of money when it was being built in the 17th century, one of the towers has yet to be finished earning it the local nickname La Manquetta or "the one-armed lady".

The city beach is a brilliant place to just kick back and relax. Considering it is less than a kilometre from the port, the water is clean, the sans is fine and there are toilet blocks and showers sponsored by the council.

And while Malaga retains its uniquely Spanish feel, it is also a great base from which to explore the rest of the Costa Del Sol. Head West and you will come to those Anglophile resorts but take the old coast road east (as opposed to the new motorway) as it winds towards Almeria and you will come across dozens of tiny fishing villages punctuated with the odd tourist resort or quirky sight.


For intriguing small shops coupled with designer boutiques, head for Marbella's Centro Historico tangle of cobbled streets around pretty Plaza de Naranjos.

For the most spectacular views of the city and coastline, head to Malaga's eigth-century Gibralfaro Castle.

The narrow streets that flank Malaga's swanky Marques de Larios have some of the best and quirkiest tapas bars in the city.

Day trip
Competa. If you are seeking some respite from the clamour and crowds of the Costa, head for this village surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. About an hour's drive from Malaga, on 15 August it is the annual Noche del Vino festival, where you can taste the local wine for free.

Nerja. You can stop off in Nerja, an hour's drive away, for instance and go and volunteer at the local donkey sanctuary or simply pick up some fruit and veg and give the animals a treat. Over the past ten years, the sanctuary, which is run by British volunteers, has rehomed more than a thousand donkeys and mules. 

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